The first thing you should know is that these are small bags, but it is surprising just how much you can fit into them. The finished size of a mini Coffee Bag is 2.75 inches tall, by just under 1.5 inches wide, by 0.75 inches deep at the bottom.
Pic 1. This picture shows the mini Coffee Bag die and a piece of patterned paper that has been die cut. I like to put my patterned paper on to the die with the pattern facing the die and the plain white side facing out. I find it easier to make the folds when I have done it this way.
Pic 2. The piece of die that creates the window of the baggie is attached to the main body of the die by three thin pieces of metal. This is so that you have the option to remove the window piece with a pair of metal snips, to create closed bags with no window. I prefer the look of the bags with a window, so I'm going to leave my die intact, but you do have the option to create plain bags.
Pic 3. This is the die cut from Pic 1 flipped over right side up. You can see which folds should be mountain folds and which should be valley folds. Also you really only need two pieces of tape to form the bag. You can see the long strip of double sided tape down the far right flap. You will need one piece of tape on the reverse of the largest of the flaps along the bottom - I've folded it up for this pic so you can see where to place it.
Pic 4. If you are adding a clear window pane, now is the time to add that. Depending on what is going in your bag you could use a little snippet of the clear bag that your WMS stamps come packaged in, or you could use food safe film from discarded food wrappings. I got the plastic for these bags from a clear plastic bread bag that I was able to snaffle when I got the bread home and popped it into the bread bin.
Pic 5. Your bag is nearly finished and you could just fold the top flap down in half, and then fold it down again and adhere at the back, but I have an idea that might tickle. - To Turn your little coffee bag into a proper tin tie Coffee Bag try this: add a little fine wire into the fold on the top flap. I get my fine wire from those little tin tie bag fasteners that you get with plastic lunchbags, like these ones below that you can buy from Lakeland. I strip the plastic off them (carefully, using my craft knife) to use in these coffee bags - they would be too bulky for the fold otherwise. You could also use fine florist wire, fine jewellery wire, fine fuse wire, etc.
Pic 6. Shows how I position my tape on one side of the fold. I popped the wire on towards the centre of the fold on the top flap.
Pic 7. Once you have folded over the top flap the bag is now finished, ready to be filled and sealed by simply folding the top flap forward once and pushing the side pieces round towards the back of the bag - just like you would with a 'real' large coffee bag.
Pic 8 and 9. Just a note about papers. All of the Coffee bags I made with good quality papers worked a treat with the thin wire. You can see the corners at the top of the bag are nice and clean and I could re-open and re-close these bags with ease without the wire showing through the top flap. I noticed that if I used a cheap thin paper that the wire can begin to poke through at the corners, the bag still works well, but for weddings and special occasions I would stick to good quality papers if using the wire. If I'm not using the wire, and just adhering the bag closed, it is not an issue.
For Food safety I would recommend using foodsafe papers such as Bacofoil Lined Parchement, or wrapping your food in clear food film before placing in any paper bag that you are unsure of.
I have a super simple little card for you - I made it with the bonus die that you can find inside the little bat die from the Boo and friends Bat die set.
It's the circular die you can see inside the bat shape in this image.
Use a pair of small pliers to remove the circular die from the bat. I sometimes smooth those little remains of the joining tabs with a file, it's best not to leave any sharp edges, future you will thank yourself.
This little disc can now be used to cut a spooky face into a card front or a tag! Depending on what side of the card you use your face can look in either direction! For my card above, I just used a plain black card base, cut a spooky face and mounted white card in behind. The speech bubble sentiments from the Boo and Friends set work great with this wee die!
The die has a double cutting line all the way around - when you run it through your die cutter it will produce a panel and a little frame, you will normally just discard the wee frame piece if you want to use the panel only.
If you have run it through the die cutter again with an embossing mat, you will also see the embossed line detailing and it will bring out the pierced lines especially well.
If you wish to create a mat for the panel, run the die through the die cutter one more time with a fresh piece of cardstock in the colour you want your mat to be.
While the die cut is STILL IN THE DIE - use ordinary tape to tape along both of the side of the die - you can just see the shiny tape in this pic. You should but the edge of the tape up to the lowest parts of the scalloped edge - DON'T put your tape right to the edge of the scallops or you will see it when the panel is done. It does not really matter how wide your tape is - I used ordinary household tape - just so long as it covers the tiny holes also.
When you take the die cut out of the die and turn it right side over, you will have something that looks like this - all you need to do now is snip away the excess tape at each end of the panel.
In the pic above I have cut a plain panel from blue card and I have made a mat panel from white card - just as I described above.
Now I layer the pieces to get a picot panel with a contrasting mat - happy clappy! :) - you can use the mat complete, or you can trim it flush at the sides like I did for the Thank you card. I love this look also.
With our new dies releasing this month I have been playing around with them, looking at what I can do with them - i love to get the best value possible from all WMS product and dies are going to be such fun in so many ways!
Our dies are going to be a mixture of both open dies, and closed dies depending on what suits the stamp it matches or the purpose of the die. For this post I'm using a closed die from the Little Lanterns Die Set.
Closed dies are dies that you cannot see through, they are not open in the middle section. Closed dies will have little round target holes and while these are so handy dandy for lining up die cuts, the target holes also cut the card. this is absoltely no problem when I am die cutting the actual shape, but when I want to use the negative space left by the die cut, I might not want to see those little circles, let me show you what I did.
1. The lantern die is lying on the white card, cutting side up - you can see the two target circles, one on either side. I'm going to mask those using a teeny tiny piece of the tan embossing mat that I have. It's an old mat, I'm currently using a fresher one, but it is great for this purpose, if you don't wish to sacrifice a tan mat to this process you could try a little piece of thin cork or some tiny pieces of card stacked up. You can see in the photo that I have trimmed off a tiny corner of the mat and cut it into two.
2. You can see where I have taped the little rubber mat pieces over the target circles, the lantern too is also taped to the white card that it sits on, this is just a piece of scrap card, it's there so I don't get tape gum all over my Grand Calibur Base plate. the tape is so thin that it does not matter if it happens to sit over the cutting die, it won't interfere with the cut.
3. I set the cardstock down on top of the die before setting the cutting mat on and passing it through the Calibur.
4. When it come out the other side, I have a nice negative shape on the red cardstock with no unnecessary target holes. This is the technique I used to make the negative shape for the front of my card, hope it tickles!
For my card I used: Zig Zag Backgrounder, Little lanterns, Little lanterns die set and Light of the world sentiments. inks were SU Cherry Cobbler, Tsukineko Versafine Black and SU daffodil and Wplus9 White. I clear embossed the sentiment with wow ultra fine clear embossing powder.
When you download a 'Cut file' (from WMS), you are getting the file that has the red line shapes only. The cut files will produce blank shapes onto which you can stamp the corresponding images provided you have the matching stamps. Some of our cut files are for shapes that don't require stamps at all, such as the Art deco card front set. This file produces lovely patterned card fronts.
Since a picture is worth about a million words, I have photographed all the important steps involved in making one of those wee windows from the Twas the Night before Christmas set.
I start out by stamping the window image, clear embossing and then trimming it out with the Spellbinders labels 14 die template. Notice the fine inner line that frames the empty inner space.
Next I trimmed out the centre rectangle, Can you see how I have trimmed the rectangle out so that the fine line is cut away at the sides and left in place at the top and bottom? Look on the bit that I have cut out, it has the fine line clearly visible at each side. This is important if you want to use shutters, if you're just trimming out the rectangle and not adding shutters you can just trim all the way round the fine line.
Next, I stamp two shutters. I also clear embossed these. I trim them out with a little spare flap on one side, I make a left shutter and a right shutter by having the spare flap on different sides of the shutter image.
I use the back of the scalpel blade to score along the edge of the shutter image to create a crease for the fold, I find the scor-pal just a little bit 'big' for this job.
Very importantly, I make a tiny slice at the top and bottom of each fold on both of the shutters, circled in red below. I do this so that when I fit the shutters into the window frame, they make a snug, tight fit, the shutter images are a hair larger than the window frame for this very reason.
Below you can see the components of the window. The shutters have been sponged and the hearts coloured brown. The two window sashes, stamped beside each other on a rectangle of card, clear embossed, sponged and then the woodwork coloured brown with a copic. I trim the image of the window sashes quite neatly so that when I put it behind the window frame, it doesn't peep out around the edges.
Next I add the mouse, there are also, baubles, a Nordic heart decoration, and a little candlestick, all suitable for stamping in the 'open' sash.
Below, I have slotted one shutter into the frame, I adhere it with strong tape. You can just see how the tiny wee slices in the fold of the shutter help to make the fold a snug fit around the window frame.
Window frame with both shutters added, and below that, the sash windows. You can see how I added dimensionals all around the sash windows, I wanted it to be set back a little from the window frame.
All that remains is to add the frame over the sash windows, and there is one pretty focal point for your card!!!